Vitamin C is one of the most widely used active ingredient in skin care. It is revered for its range of benefits, such as balancing skin tone, reducing hyperpigmentation and reducing signs of aging through its cell repair abilities. However, between brightening the skin and helping to protect against UV damage, vitamin C can do a lot more for your skin.

Vitamin C is an antioxidant, this means that it reduces the damage that free radicals may otherwise inflict on the body. Free radicals are particles that results in the inflammation of cells, cell inflammation can cause premature aging over time.

FORMS OF VITAMIN C

Vitamin C is available in a number of active forms and each of them have their place and use in skin care.  They include the most biologically active form of vitamin C, Ascorbic Acid (or L’ascorbic acid), which is the purest form of Vitamin C. Other derivatives include sodium ascorbly phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, retinyl ascorbate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Ethyl ascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. These derivatives are not pure vitamin C, rather they are combined with other ingredients, which help to keep the vitamin C stable,  when these derivatives come in contact with the skin, they release the pure vitamin C onto the skin.

Ascorbic Acid (or l’ascorbic acid)

Water soluble Ascorbic Acid (or l’ascorbic acid) can be used in topical products; however, its use is limited because it is highly unstable and can cause skin irritation.

When exposed to light and/or air, ascorbic acid not only becomes inactive, but it oxidizes extremely fast which can be very irritating to the skin, this makes it unsuitable for a lot of natural skin care formulations.

Ascorbic acid is very pH dependent. In order to be effective and penetrate the skin, the formulation would have to at a low pH of less than 3.5 (Acidic). This acidic PH can be a hinderance with effective preservation as most preservative would be ineffective at this low PH.  A low PH can also result in stinging to the skin.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Sodium Ascorbly Phosphate

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Sodium Ascorbly Phosphate Vitamin C derivatives provide some solution to the degradation of Ascorbic acid. These water-soluble derivatives of Vitamin C are not as sensitive to light and air as ascorbic acid, they are more stable and less irritating to the skin. They are also not PH sensitive, However, they are less effective than ascorbic acid.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl palmitate is a more stable form of the active vitamin C. It is an ester formed from ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C) and Palmitic acid (a saturated fatty acid). The result is an oil soluble form of vitamin C. The oil solubility of palmitic acid enhances the penetration of ascorbic acid into the skin. It is effective at a neutral pH, which means that it is non-irritating on the skin. Ascorbly palmitate is a potent antioxidant with immense benefits in high-performance skincare. Ascorbyl palmitate is naturally derived, ECOCERT/COSMOS certified making it the natural formulator’s choice of vitamin C.

WHY YOU MAY NEED VITAMIN C IN YOUR SKIN CARE

Properly formulated Vitamin C derivative in high performance skin care have the potential to significantly improve the skin’s appearance. The efficacy of Vitamin can be optimized when combined with other potent antioxidants such as Vitamin E and ferulic acid to name a few. Skin care products with Vitamin C can be used to target the following.

1. Vitamin C promotes collagen production which can thicken the dermis, reduce fine lines, and results in visibly firmer and more youthful skin.
2. Vitamin C is an effective antioxidant, meaning it protects skin cells from damaging free radicals caused by UV exposure. That doesn’t mean that vitamin C can be used in place of sunscreen, some research suggests that vitamin C can help reduce the harm. You still require a broad-spectrum SPF to protect your skin adequately.
3. It can inhibit melanin production in the skin, which helps to lighten hyperpigmentation and brown spots, even out skin tone, and enhance skin radiance.
4. Vitamin C can help repair damage from sun exposure and collagen loss by encouraging healthy cell turnover and regeneration.

Although Vitamin C is generally safe for most skin types, we recommend consultation with your dermatologist before use.