If you’re formulating cleansers, body washes, shampoos, or micellar waters, there’s one ingredient group you can’t ignore, surfactants. These hardworking molecules lift dirt, oil, and impurities off the skin and hair, basically, the unsung heroes of every effective cleansing formula.

But with names like anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic being thrown around, it’s easy to feel like you need a chemistry degree to choose the right one.

Whether you’re an indie beauty brand scaling up or a DIY-er perfecting your sulfate-free face wash, this guide will help you navigate the foamy world of surfactants with confidence.

What Are Surfactants?

Surfactants (short for “surface active agents”) reduce the surface tension between oil and water, allowing them to mix. That’s what makes them so essential in products that cleanse, foam, emulsify, or solubilize.

Surfactants fall into four main categories:

• Anionic – Strong cleansers with foaming power (e.g. Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Alpha Olefin Sulfonate, Foaming Apple)
• Nonionic – Milder, often used for sensitive skin or baby formulations (e.g. Decyl Glucoside, Coco Glucoside, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside)
• Amphoteric – Gentle and versatile, great in blends (e.g. Coco Betaine)
• Cationic – Best for conditioners, not cleansers (e.g. BTMS-50)

How to Choose the Right Surfactant

1. Know Your Product Type

Are you making a foaming face wash, a gentle shampoo, or a micellar water?

• For facial cleansers, try The Glucosides,  Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate or Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate.
• For shampoos or clarifying cleansers, Alpha Olefin Sulfonate gives a deep clean.
• Need a solubilizer for micellar water? Use Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside.

2. Understand Active Surfactant Matter (ASM)

ASM tells you how much actual surfactant is present in your formulation (not just water + surfactant blend). It’s a key factor in determining how cleansing or gentle your formula will be.

• Facial cleansers: Aim for total ASM between 4–10%
• Body washes and shampoos: Go higher—around 10–20%
• Baby and sensitive skin products: Stay below 6% ASM

 Pro tip: Always check the ASM percentage listed on the datasheet of your surfactant (e.g., Alpha Olefin Sulfonate is ~40% ASM), and calculate accordingly based on how much you’re using in your formula.

3. Consider Skin or Hair Type

• For sensitive or dry skin, Coco Glucoside and Decyl Glucoside are top choices.
• For oily skin or scalp: Alpha Olefin Sulfonate or Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
• For creamy lather: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) gives a lush, non-stripping cleanse.

4. Balance Cleansing Power with Mildness

• Combine a strong surfactant with a mild one.
  Example: Alpha Olefin Sulfonate + Coco Betaine = strong yet gentle.

5. Check pH Compatibility

Many of these surfactants (like SCI, Sarcosinate, Glucosides) work well around pH 4.5–6.0, ideal for skin-friendly formulations.

6. Consider Product Texture & Aesthetics

• For clear gels: Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside or Foaming Apple
• For creamy cleansers or bar formats: SCI + Coco Glucoside is a dream team.

Some Surfactants at Skin Foodie

• Decyl Glucoside – Nonionic, ultra-gentle, biodegradable
• Coco Glucoside – Mild, coconut-derived, helps thicken
• Coco Betaine – Amphoteric, reduces irritation, boosts foam
• SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) – Gentle, creamy foam, ideal for bars
• Alpha Olefin Sulfonate – Deep-cleaning, high foaming
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSa) – Sulfate-free, skin safe foamer
• Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – Mild anionic, silky feel
• Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside – Excellent for solubilizing oils
• Foaming Apple – Naturally derived, gentle cleanser
• Potassium Cocoate – Liquid soap base, great for natural products
• BTMS-50 – For hair conditioning only (not cleansing)

Formulation Tips

• Use Surfactant blends for best performance.
• Keep total surfactant ASM concentration around 10–20% (depending on product type. 4-10 for facial products, 15-20% for body products, 10-15% for hair products, ASM of shampoos are dependent on hair type, lower end for very dry or afro hair types and higher end for oily hair).
• Add humectants like glycerin, panthenol or honey quats for skin hydration.
• Include a protector for skin health (for example proteins, at 1-2% or superfatting)
• Test pH and stability don’t skip it.

Choosing the right surfactant isn’t about what foams the most, it’s about creating balance, performance, and that luxe skin feels your customers will love.

From solubilizers to creamy lathers and sulfate-free foams, surfactants can make or break your formulation. With the right combo, you’re not just making a cleanser, you’re crafting an experience.

Ready to start formulating?

Explore our full surfactant collection at skinfoodie.com.ng and level up your next formulation beautifully and professionally.