Description

Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)

Mild Non-Ionic Solubilizer & Emulsifier for Skin and Hair Care Formulations

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, non-ionic surfactant and solubilizer derived from sorbitol and lauric acid (typically from coconut oil). It plays a key role in modern cosmetic formulation science by enabling water and oil phases to blend seamlessly,  ideal for formulating clear sprays, toners, serums, and cleansing systems.

In skin and hair care, Polysorbate 20 enhances product stability, texture, and spreadability. It is particularly valued for solubilizing essential oils, fragrance oils, and actives into aqueous or aqueous–alcoholic systems without cloudiness or separation. Compared to Polysorbate 80, it’s lighter and milder, making it the preferred choice for facial care, baby care, and sensitive-skin formulations.

Research supports its low irritancy profile, excellent dermal compatibility, and multifunctional performance,  not only as a solubilizer but also as a wetting agent, dispersant, and viscosity modifier. In hair care, it promotes even distribution of conditioning agents, essential oils, and fragrances, helping to improve detangling and manageability while reducing static.

Technical Specifications

INCI Name: Polysorbate 20
Chemical Class: Non-ionic surfactant, fatty acid ester of sorbitol
Appearance: Clear to pale amber viscous liquid
Odor: Neutral to faint characteristic odor
Solubility: Soluble in water, alcohols; dispersible in oils
Recommended Usage: 1–20%
pH Range: Compatible with pH 4–8 formulations
Shelf Life: Up to 2 years with proper storage (cool, dry, and out of direct sunlight)

 Formulation Notes

• Combine with cetyl alcohol or sorbitan stearate for improved emulsifying power.

• Ideal for oil-in-water emulsions and clear aqueous formulations.

• Use as a solubilizer for up to 2–3% essential oil or fragrance in sprays or toners.

 Key Benefits

For Skin Care:

• Solubilizes essential oils, actives, and fragrances in water-based products

• Contributes to smooth, stable, and non-greasy formulations

• Adds mildness to cleansers and micellar waters for sensitive or baby skin

• Improves rinse-off in cleansing products, reducing residue

• Enhances skin feel and product spreadability

For Hair Care:

• Promotes even dispersion of oils and conditioning agents in shampoos and sprays

• Helps reduce static and improve combability

• Adds mildness and gentle cleansing to baby shampoos and scalp care products

• Enhances clarity and stability in leave-in treatments and tonics

Common Applications

• Facial toners, mists & micellar waters

• Body & room sprays

• Cleansers and shower gels

• Baby shampoos & gentle washes

• Lotions, creams & emulsions (O/W)

• Makeup removers and wet wipes

• Hair mists, serums, and scalp treatments

Storage & Handling

Store in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dry environment away from direct sunlight. Avoid contamination by sealing tightly after use.

Disclaimer

This information is provided for educational purposes only and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. All ingredients sold by Skin Foodie are for external use only in cosmetic and personal care formulations, unless otherwise stated.

At Skin Foodie, we are committed to sourcing only premium pharmaceutical- or food-grade ingredients, because purity and grade matter as much in skincare as they do in nutrition. Please note: not all ingredients with the same name or CAS Registry Number (CAS RN) are created equal. Lower-cost alternatives may lack the same performance, safety, or efficacy, which is why we never compromise on quality.