Moisturisers are skin care ingredients or products that help to maintain and restore the moisture content of the skin. Their main purpose is to tackle skin dryness, dullness and low fluidity in the skin.
As popular as moisturizers have become in recent years, many do not really understand what ingredients are best for deep moisturization in their skin care products.
It is not uncommon to see someone oblivious of the fact that the word ‘moisturisers’ is a general name covering ingredients or products that work in a way to maintain the skin moisture content. Moisturisers are generally divided into three categories: Humectants, emollients and occlusives, although their working principles vary slightly, they tend to have a similar end goal, which is to keep the skin soft, healthy and retain its moisture content among other benefits.
Emollients
Emollients are ingredients used to keep the skin soft and more comfortable by filling in dry cracked skin. They are oftentimes, butters, oils, lipids and fatty acids. They work by having a multi-pronged effect on the skin, they fill the spaces between the skin cells, enhance the skin barrier function, and boost membrane fluidity. They help to soften dry and flaky skin making it look healthier and more supple. Emollients are used to manage irritated and inflamed skin and are great for skin conditions like Eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis. In cosmetic products, emollients are usually formulated with humectants and occlusives, in order to perform better.
Occlusives
Occlusive ingredients are usually the thickest in the group, these seal moisture into the skin. They are oftentimes waxes like candelilla, carnauba, beeswax or petroleum jelly and silicones. They also include a few oils like Jojoba. They generally retain water within the skin and act as a barrier to outside environmental forces. They do this by sealing or forming a protective layer on the skin surface (occlusion), thereby preventing trans-epidermal moisture loss which keeps the moisture content within and at an optimal level. They also help keep irritants, allergens and other harmful particles from being able to penetrate the skin.
Humectants
Humectants are considered ingredients that deliver true hydration. They are water-loving ingredients found in skin and hair care products. They work by pulling water/moisture into the skin or hair and holding it there. They include ingredients like hyaluronic acid, honey, aloe vera, AHAs like lactic acid, ceramides, seaweed and several others. They can pull water from the air or from the deeper layers of the dermis into the outer skin layer. They are hygroscopic substances (This means that they have the ability to attract moisture from the environment and add it onto another substance to keep it hydrated and moist) and as such will always pull water to the skin or hair. Humectants are usually formulated with occlusives to help seal in the moisture pulled out. When the skin or hair has an adequate moisture content it will look and feel more youthful, softer and healthier.
Read on for some moisturizing ingredients to consider for your next formulation.
1, 3 propanediol is the plant-based alternative to propylene glycol. This makes it a perfect choice for green movement formulators that want their product ingredients all natural. Just like propylene glycol, it can be used as a solvent and helps to improve the stability of products. Primarily, it traps in moisture as well as pulls in hydration to the outer layer of the skin. It is an effective true moisturizer that will keep the skin deeply moisturized by working both as a humectant and an emollient. As a humectant, it helps to draw moisture to the skin surface, keeping it moisturized, while as an emollient, it keeps the skin soft, smooth and maintain its fluid membrane. Due to its humectant property, it is considered a beneficial ingredient for aged and dry skin.
D-panthenol, also known as (Pro) vitamin B5 is popularly used as a moisturizing agent in skin care due to its great moisturizing ability. When used in products, it helps to soften and smoothen the skin while increasing moisture absorption. Additionally, it helps to build up the skin barrier which limits water loss and damage to the skin cells. It also has smoothening and anti-irritation properties. Its application can be widely seen in skin and hair care formulation where deep moisturization is needed.
Polyquaternium 7 is a water-soluble conditioner that can be used for the skin and hair. It is a great moisturizer with unique emollient abilities which helps to keep the skin soft and smooth. Polyquarternium-7 is hydrophilic (water-loving) and as such, can absorb moisture from the surrounding. Additionally, it forms a thin film on the surface of the skin, making it act as an occlusive and thus preventing the loss of moisture. Due to these unique properties, Polyquaternium 7 is widely used in creams, lotions, moisturizers, body washes and shaving creams. Another notable application of Polyquat is in the hair care industry, where it is highly regarded as a deep conditioner with benefits like being anti-frizz, detangler, anti hair breakage and split ends and in general, maintains the hair health.
Glycerin is a popular choice for moisturization and it is no doubt loved by many as it is found in a wide range of body care products. Glycerin is great for the skin because it acts as a humectant, It traps moisture into the skin, keeping it hydrated. It also tackles skin dryness, dullness, and keeps the skin feeling refreshed and healthy.
Ceramides are found naturally in the skin and is an important constituent of the skin. Ceramides help to maintain the skin barrier and moisture content. However, ceramides in the skin becomes depleted as we age, therefore, it becomes necessary to supplement the ceramide levels of the skin. Vegetable ceramide is one of the ingredients that can be used to supplement the skin ceramide level. It is a super moisturizer that helps to keep the skin supple and hydrated. It does this by locking up moisture in the skin, thereby preventing moisture loss. It also reduces wrinkles, fine lines and firms up saggy skin. It is effective in the repair of damaged skin cells.
Hyaluronic acid is another ingredient popular for its moisturizing ability. It is used in products where deep hydration is needed. It helps to boosts skin cell growth and pushes the skin to produce more collagen and elastin, this in turn helps to maintain the skin barrier and elasticity, keeping the skin moisturized.
Honey Quat or quaternized honey is a derivative of honey that is free of the stickiness associated with honey. It is a perfect choice for people who love honey but can’t stand its sticky nature. Honey quat as the name implies is produced from honey which means it has all the cosmetic benefits of honey and more. Studies show that honey quat has twice the moisturizing ability of glycerin and as such is a wonderful moisturizer with excellent humectant properties. As a humectant, it ensures that moisture is always made available to the skin while its emollient ability helps to keep the skin soft, and tackles dryness. Other benefits are reducing signs of aging, firming-up the skin, boost hair shine and conditioning properties.
In conclusion, while it appears that humectants are the key to ‘hydration’, For optimal moisturization they are usually supported by occlusives and emollients for effective hydration.
Visit our shop for a wide assortment of all three categories you would need for deep moisturization.
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