- Plant oils, also known as carrier oils are considered a foundational ingredient in most formulations. Along with hydrous ingredients, they typically form the bulk of most natural skin care formulations.
Plant oils are nutrients dense and are used to create highly effective skin care products to address almost any skin care concern, thanks to the myriad of skin beneficial nutrients that they possess.
Plant Oil Nutrients And Their Benefits To The skin
Fatty acids form the key components of the nutrient profile of plants oils, and their functions are quite varied in skin health.
Stearic acid, a fatty acid known for its hydrating and occlusive properties, can be found in cocoa butter, coconut oil, mango , butter, shea butter and oil, Kokum butter and neem oils.
Lauric acid known for its anti-inflammatory benefits is found in coconut oil, babassu oil, and palm oils.
Myristic Acid is known for its cleansing and emollient benefits and is found in babassu, palm and coconut oils.
Palmitic Acid great for soothing, hydrating, anti-aging, and barrier-protective properties, is found in baobab, macadamia, cupuacu butter, palm, peanut, rice bran, sea buckthorn and neem oils.
Palmitoleic Acid is know for its anti-aging, healing, and rejuvenating benefits and is found in macadamia, cupuacu butter and sea buckthorn oils.
Oleic Acid is an omega-9 fatty acid with hydrating benefits suitable for dry and sensitive skin. Oils rich in oleic acid include almond, apricot, avocado, carrot seed, hazelnut, macadamia, olive, cocoa, cupuacu, mango, shea butter, argan, jojoba, rice bran and tamanu oils.
Plant oils are also a great source of essential fatty acids of Alpha linoleic acid (a form of omega-3) and linoleic acid (a form of omega-6) that cannot be produced by the body, and that not only supports skin health, but overall health. Given their robust nutrient profile, there’s almost no plant oil without beneficial properties to the skin and the entire body as a whole.
Research suggests that topical application of fatty acids, of which plant oils are a great source, is better than ingestion when it comes to skin health. Topical application provides a more efficient delivery system for many skin friendly fatty acids.
Fatty acids present in plant oils have also been shown to play a vital role in improving signs of aging, they protect collagen and improve skin elasticity which can improve the appearance of fine lines and make skin appear plumper and more youthful.
While plants oils contain numerous fatty acids, alpha linoleic acid (an omega-3) and linoleic acid (an omega-6) are considered essential fatty acids and are a focus in skin care because unlike the other fatty acids found in plant oils, the body cannot produce these on its own, they are either ingested or applied topically.
Some factors to consider in choosing your oils
In our experience, the most common skin concerns cited are often either, skin is too dry or too oily and acne prone. In addressing these concerns with the varying benefits that plants oils offer, two quick factors to consider in choosing the most suitable oils are:
- Fatty acid content of oils
- Comedogenic ratio of oils
1. Fatty acid content
Oils with high oleic acids
Oleic Acid is an omega-9 fatty acid with hydrating benefits and is more ideal for drier skin. Oils high in oleic acid can help with dry and sensitive skin, and are great at reducing skin sensitivity. Oils like avocado, hazelnut, macadamia, neem oil, olive, argan oil, shea oil and butter, cocoa butter, kokum butter, cupuacu butter, mango, abyssinian, jojoba oil, rice bran and tamanu oils have the highest oleic acid ratio.
Oils with high linoleic Acid
People with oily skin or acne prone skin would benefit from topical application of oils rich in fatty acid linoleic acid. Linoleic acid is an omega-6 essential fatty acid and it is not produced by the body. It has anti-aging, barrier protective, soothing, and balancing properties, and is most suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. Oils rich in linoleic acid include black seed oil, evening primrose, hemp, grapeseed, papaya seed, jojoba oil, pumpkin seed, red raspberry, rosehip, safflower, sunflower, wheat germ oil, borage, castor, pomegranate and sesame oils.
2.Comedogenic ratio
The comedogenic ratio simply ranks oils and butters based on their propensity to clog the pores and cause acne.
Typically, people susceptible to acne breakout are advised to stick to oils with lower comedogenic ratios, and those with drier skin are advised to opt for more emollient oil toward the higher end of the scale.
Low comedogenic oils or ingredients are less likely to clog the pores and have a comedogenic rating of 2 or less, and higher ratings of 4 and 5 are considered more comedogenic.
This is not an absolute rule in all situations as comedogenic evaluation can be quite subjective and several factors could contribute to acne break out, however, it serves as a good place to start in understanding your oils better. Below are a list of 10 plant oils with low comedogenic ratio.
Sunflower oil has a ratio of 0-2. It is a light oil & great for most skin types. It is high in Linoleic, oleic & palmitic acids as well as vitamins A&D. It serves as a great diluent in formulations and is cost effective.
Grapeseed oil is a light & dry oil with a ratio of 1. It is rich in antioxidants and its high content of omega 6 fatty acids helps to nourish and improve the texture of very dry skin without clogging the pores.
Popularly referred to as liquid gold for good reasons, Argan oil has a ratio of 0. It is rich in omega 6 & 9 fatty acids as well as Oleic & linoleic acids. It supports aging skin, moisturizes and improves skin & hair texture.
In variance with its thick texture, castor oil has a ratio of 1. It is great for most skin types including oily skin. It is rich in Ricinoleic acid, which has anti-inflammatory benefits. Castor oil is a favourite in hair care products where it conditions, helps with split ends & improves hair volume.
Plum kernel is a light and fast absorbing oil with a ratio of 1-2. It is rich in oleic fatty acids & antioxidants. It is also deeply nourishing, hydrating and leaves the skin soft and sanity to the touch.
Shea nut oil is obtained from shea butter, it has a ratio of 1-2 & is great for very dry skin. It has all the nourishing benefits of shea butter but is even more moisturizing thanks to its higher oleic acid content.
Neem oil has a ratio of 1-2 and great for dry irritated skin. It is rich in fatty acids and glycerides. It is an excellent moisturizer, improves skin elasticity & has anti-aging benefits.
Hemp seed oil has a ratio of 0 and contains high amounts of essential fatty acids and proteins. Hemp seed oil is a great anti-aging oil with excellent skin moisturizing benefits.
Rosehip seed oil has a ratio of 1 & is full of vitamins, antioxidants & essential fatty acids. It is highly sort after for its numerous nutritive benefits, which includes hydration, anti-aging and skin brightening abilities.
Tomato seed oil has a ratio of 0-2. It is high in active ingredients such as lycopene and zeaxanthin as well as antioxidants. It is great for most skin types and targets signs of aging, dryness, and pigmentation.
Other oils with low comedogenic ratio are safflower oil, abyssinian Seed Oil, strawberry seed oil, walnut oil sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, Baobab oil, Borage oil, Black seed oil, Camellia oil, Cucumber oil, Hazel nut oil, Peach kernel oil, Raspberry seed oil.
We hope this helps you to ma犀利士
ke a better decision on your choice of natural oils? head over to the shop to view our wide selection of plant oils.
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Excellent write-up.